The Echigo-Tsumari Art Triennale, an Amazing Open-Air Museum in Japan
This summer I had the chance to visit the Echigo-Tsumari Art Triennale, which is an open-air museum spread all around Niigata Prefecture, designed by artists from all over Japan and the world. I will introduce the festival to you as well as the spots I visited on my itinerary. I only went for two days so I could not see all the hundreds of exhibits, but you can take a look at the full list here.
If you would like a guided tour in order to find your way around and learn more about the area, we can arrange this for you, please contact us https://omakase-tour.com/contact/.
About the Echigo-Tsumari Art Triennale
The Echigo-Tsumari Art Triennale is one of the world's largest outdoor art festivals, nestled in the heart of Niigata's rural landscapes. Held every three years, it transforms the region's rice paddies, forests, villages and even abandoned schools and houses into immersive works of art. More than just an art show, the festival invites visitors to experience the harmony between contemporary art, traditional culture, and the natural environment. With hundreds of installations scattered across the vast countryside, it's a great way to explore part of rural Japan that many people overlook.
The concepts of the Echigo-Tsumari Art Triennale
The Triennale is built around seven main concepts. These are:
1. Human beings are part of nature
The people of this region have been cultivating their land under harsh winter conditions for centuries. They understand the effect the natural environment has on their own lives and the festival is based around this theme.
2. A journey to explore Satoyama landscape following artworks as guiding lights
The festival promotes slow travel through the 200 villages in the area.
3. Cooperation beyond generations, regions and backgrounds
Artists have to cooperate with local landowners and the community in order to create their artwork. Many local people volunteer to help as they have a passion for the project.
They say: "such encounters between "the old people spending their time on farming in depopulating area" and "students aimlessly passing time in the city" brought collisions and confusions first and then transformed into appreciation and cooperation." (Source: https://www.echigo-tsumari.jp/en/about/)
4. Making an alternative value out of existing.
Many abandoned schools and houses have been repurposed into artworks, making new spaces for the community and visitors to spend time in.
5. Unique hub facilities
Artworks are created with the Echigo-Tsumari region in mind - think heavy snowfall, secluded villages, terraced rice fields, mabu (hand-dug caves) and Jomon earthenware.
6. Art of living (Art de vivre)
They have been focusing their attention on "food" in the belief that it is the most primitive representation of art. "Food" plays significant role in involving local people.
7. Global / Local
They invite both local artists and artists from around the world to participate, connecting this depopulating region with the world. The aim is to encourage new exchanges and cooperation beyond the villages.
Where is the Echigo-Tsumari Art Triennale held
The festival takes place in the Echigo-Tsumari region of Niigata Prefecture. There are some tours that take you around using public transport, but the best option by far is to rent a car or take one of our guided tours by private car https://omakase-tour.com/contact/.
You can see the areas on a map here.
When is the Echigo-Tsumari Art Triennale held
The Art Triennale is held once every three years. It has been around since the year 2000 and this year (2024) marks the 9th festival.
Can you visit the Echigo-Tsumari Art Triennale outside the festival dates
Yes, you can visit any time. There are about 200 exhibits which are permanent artworks and can be seen any time. There are also special seasonal exhibits, like winter illuminations and various festivals. Here are some of the facilities available year-round: https://www.echigo-tsumari.jp/en/travelinformation/t_category/museum/.
How do you get to the Echigo-Tsumari Art Triennale
From Tokyo Station take the JR Joetsu Shinkansen for 70 minutes to Echigo Yuzawa Station then the JR Joetsu Line to Tokamachi Station (or you can rent a car directly from Echigo Yuzawa).
More detailed directions can be found on the official website.
How much does it cost?
The best way is to buy a passport as it's much cheaper than paying for every exhibit individually.
These cost:
Adults: JPY4,500
Children 6-18 years old: JPY2,000
Children under 6 years old: free
My two-day trip to the Echigo-Tsumari Art Triennale
One weekend in September I decided to go with my family to the Art Triennale. We took the shinkansen from Tokyo and then rented a car from Echigo-Yuzawa Station. We stayed in a cheap minshuku, which could be a good option if you're on a budget, but I didn't like it much as it triggered my allergies, so I won't recommend it. Instead I'll recommend staying at one of the official accommodations. Here is a list of them all https://www.echigo-tsumari.jp/en/travelinformation/t_category/stay/. The ones in the abandoned schools look great, although I'm not so sure about the one with the coffin bed!
Here you can see a list of all the artworks https://www.echigo-tsumari.jp/en/art/artwork/. I didn't visit everything as I only had two days, but just a selection of child friendly exhibits, as I was with my 2- and 6-year-old children. So my recommended itinerary is good for families with kids.
Museum on Echigo-Tsumari (MonET)
Open year-round. Closed Tue + wed.
This was a large art museum that has various interesting exhibits upstairs, as well as kid-friendly activites such as climbing inside a giant cling-film bubble, mini-golf, walking on beams around the water and more. The exhibits are part of the Triennale, such as Lost #6 which captivated us.
We all loved this museum and it was open late which was great.
Hachi & Seizo Tashima Museum of Picture Book Art
Open 4/27-11/25, 2024 (Closed on Tue ＆ Wed except holidays)
This display is built into an old primary school. It's lovely to see it brought back to life long after all the kids grew up and left the village. It is a fairytale fantasy brought to life, colourful and fun, and there's an on-site cafe.
Outside the school is Listen to my song, The Rondo by the queen which are some fun outdoor exhibits and while I don't think it's part of the art - a goat!
The Tanaka Fumio Library
Open 7/13-11/10, 2024 (Closed on Tue ＆ Wed except holidays)
This room has some books lit up. It houses a book collecion donated by Fumio Tanaka. We just spent 5 minutes here.
Another Singularity
Open 7/13-11/10, 2024 (Closed on Tue ＆ Wed except holidays)
An old akiya was turned into this artwork. It looks like a giant spider made a web and took over the house. Very interesting to see.
Time of Farm Tools
Open 7/13-11/10, 2024 (Closed on Tue ＆ Wed except holidays)
An entirely yellow room with farm tools suspended in the positions the farmers used them in.
HERE-UPON YORISHIRO
Open 4/27-11/10, 2024 (Closed on Tue ＆ Wed except holidays)
This is a spherical cedar tree on the grounds of a mystical shrine. It was drizzling rain when I visited which actually added to the atmosphere.
Nakago WonderLand-Breath and Rebirth of Animals
Open 7/13-10/6, 2024 (Closed on Tue ＆ Wed except holidays)
If your kids like animals, this one will be popular. It's a grassy field with animal exhibits scattered all over.
Kowaki School
Open 7/13-11/10, 2024 (Closed on Tue ＆ Wed except holidays)
Pass by two "watch out for bears" signs on your drive to this spot, then walk up a small hill to this enclosed circle full of the artworks of local children. The kids made art out of rubbish they found at home and it looks impressive all placed together.
For Lots of Lost Windows
Open 4/27-11/10,2024 (Closed on Tue ＆ Wed except holidays)
The artist resolved to create a work like a flower that would blossom modestly, without disturbing nature.
To me, I can't help thinking of the Department of Mysteries in Harry Potter.
Tunnel of Light
Open Throughout the year
This is the most famous exhibit which you might have seen on posters. Walk through the Kiyotsu Gorge tunnel - 750m long, with exhibits and a view of the river throughout.
The Rice Fields
Open 4/27-11/25, 2024 (Closed on Tue ＆ Wed except holidays)
They are rice fields with some sculptures. In the general area there are some walking paths with other sculptures, so I recommend walking around this area. Reverse City was particularly interesting.
Relation--Blackboard Classroom
Open Open all year / Closed on Tue ＆ Wed except holidays
This exhibit is inside the NO BUTAI Snow-Land Agrarian Culture Center, Matsudai. The kids loved drawing on the floor, walls and desks with chalk. This museum is located right next to "The Rice Fields".
The human re-entering nature
I liked the idea of nature reclaiming the earth. It's next to a soba restaurant where we ate lunch. Also there is the work called Inagohabitambo which is a grasshopper shaped slide, good for kids!
Shedding House
Open 7/13-11/10, 2024 (Closed on Tue ＆ Wed except holidays)
The philosophy is "A house became a lifeless shell with the passage of time. By hand carving the entire house, the artists shed its skin and resurrected it as a work of art."
It's beautifully hand carved and apparently took 2.5 years to do. You can even sleep there if you fancy.
Golden Playroom
Open 7/13-11/10, 2024 (Closed on Tue ＆ Wed except holidays)
This was kitsch, quirky and so fun. I can't even describe this house but you must visit if you want something a bit out-there.
Nunagawa Campus
Open 7/13-11/10, 2024 (Closed on Tue ＆ Wed except holidays)
Another highlight was an abandoned school turned into a mix of various artworks. There was Mokuyu: Wood Bathing which was a wooden ball pit. There was an outdoor trolley to ride on. There was an entire room made of newspaper. And more!
The Last Class
Open all year round (2024/4/27-11/25: closed Tue & Wed except holidays, 11/30-2025/3/31: weekends & holidays only)
Another old school campus turned into art. This one is fascinating and a real highlight. Look for the shelves at the end of the route filled with objects from the locals childhoods. Somehow I don't have a photo of this place, but it's one you should not skip!
If you want to visit the Echigo-Tsumari Art Triennale but don't know where to start, let us arrange a guided tour for you!
